Tallow and your skin: mythbusting edition

Tallow and your skin: mythbusting edition

Despite its roots in ancient skincare, tallow is trending — and that comes with both curiosity and confusion. Is it too greasy? Is it comedogenic? Or is it a powerhouse for skin barrier repair?

Let’s break it down.


CLAIM 1: “Tallow is nature’s retinol.”

Not quite.

Tallow contains vitamin A — but not in the form of retinol or retinoic acid. It offers retinyl esters, a gentler, bioavailable version of vitamin A that supports skin function without irritation.

So tallow can gently support cell turnover, but will absolutely not deliver the effects of a prescription retinoid. Anyone who claims it does might as well be waving a red flag. 


CLAIM 2: “Tallow is pore-clogging.”

Not when formulated properly.

Tallow has a similar composition to human sebum, making it highly compatible with the skin barrier. On its own, it ranks moderately low on comedogenic scales, but that doesn’t tell the whole story.

Formulation matters. Whipped tallow products or those mixed with known pore-cloggers like coconut oil, cocoa butter, or shea butter are more likely to cause congestion. 

So while tallow isn’t inherently pore-clogging — it depends on what it’s combined with (and how it's blended). Our balm has an overall rating of 1.5-2 on the comedogenic scale, meaning it unlikely to clog pores, but we always recommend patch testing for anyone sensitive to occlusives or acne-prone. 

With that in mind...


CLAIM 3: “Tallow cures acne.”

It can sometimes help, but it’s not a cure. 

Acne is caused by multiple factors — bacteria, inflammation, hormones, and barrier dysfunction. Tallow can support barrier repair and reduce inflammation, especially when combined with calming oils like rosehip and jojoba.

That said, tallow products are best suited to dry and and disrupted skin. When well formulated, it can reduce some triggers that lead to acne — but it’s not a designated treatment. 


CLAIM 4: “Tallow's oleic acid content is barrier disrupting.”

Not when balanced with other fatty acids.

High-oleic oils (such as olive oil) are great at penetrating the skin barrier and thus aiding in the absorption of nutrients. But too much penetration can veer into damage. By combining oleic acid with other fatty acids, we negate this risk and boost skin-calming and emollient properties.

  • Stearic acid – strengthens the skin barrier
  • Palmitic acid – softens and protects
  • Oleic acid – helps penetration, has anti-inflammatory benefits
  • Linoleic acid – restorative antioxidant that can fight discolouration

Our formula combines 100% grass-fed & finished tallow in combination with other lipid-rich ingredients that balance out its lipid profile and bring it closer to that of our own skin:

  • Jojoba oil – similar to sebum, non-comedogenic
  • Rosehip oil – high in linoleic acid and antioxidants
  • Squalane – skin-identical lipid 
  • Vitamin E oil – protects lipids from oxidation

CLAIM 5: “Tallow is heavy and greasy.”

Not if it’s done right.

While it has an evocative sensorial appeal, whipped tallow feels heavier and oxidizes faster. That's because whipping forces air into the mix which makes the product harder and less spreadable, as well as more likely to clog pores and turn rancid (if you've smelled a bad tallow product, whipping is likely the culprit). Not to mention, you're paying for less product and more, well, air 💨

Tallow should feel balm-y but breathable, if the formula is clean and properly combined.


CLAIM 6: “It's highly alkaline”

A misconception.

This confusion likely stems from conflating tallow moisturizers with tallow-based soap, which do have high pH values. But tallow is a fat and water-insoluble substances like oils, fats, waxes and resins simply do not have pH values. 

Furthermore, studies show that topical lipids like tallow do not alter skin pH and can actually help maintain acid mantle integrity by supporting the skin’s natural lipid structure.


CHECKLIST

What to look for in a quality tallow product:

✅ Grass-fed & finished – higher in anti-inflammatory nutrients

✅ Additional non-comedogenic plant oils and antioxidants – to balance and protect the lipid profile

✅ Stabilizers like vitamin E + beeswax – protects product integrity

✅ <1% essential oils – subtle scent, low chance of irritation

✅ Dark, airtight packaging – protects nutrients and shelf life

What to avoid:

🚩 Plain cooking tallow without additional lipids and antioxidants

🚩 Pore-clogging additives like coconut oil, cocoa or shea butter 

🚩 Whipped formulations - increases oxidation, can lead to rancidity


WHY WE USE TALLOW

Tallow is biologically compatible, lipid-rich, and barrier-supportive. That’s why it’s the foundation of our balm.

We combine:

  • 100% grass-fed & finished tallow
  • Cold-pressed jojoba + virgin rosehip oil
  • Natural beeswax + vitamin E
  • Subtle, non-irritating botanicals

No filler, nothing extra. Just skin-nourishing simplicity that works with your barrier — not against it.


THE BOTTOM LINE

Just like any other product on the market, when it comes to tallow-based skincare, ingredients and formulations matter. When done properly, it provides excellent results for specific skin types and concerns:

  • Sensitive skin types seeking barrier support
  • Dry, flaky, or compromised skin needing deep nourishment
  • Anyone recovering from over-exfoliation or harsh products
  • People looking for a minimal, non-irritating or natural skincare routine
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