Fatty acids in skincare: what they do and why they matter
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"Good fats" aren’t just for your diet. They’re essential for healthy skin, too. In fact, fatty acids are some of the most powerful building blocks your skin barrier has. Without them, skin becomes dry, irritated, and more vulnerable to inflammation, breakouts, and moisture loss.
Let’s take a look at the key fatty acids in skincare, what they do, and why a balanced blend matters.
WHAT ARE FATTY ACIDS?
Fatty acids are lipids (fats) that play a critical role in maintaining the skin’s natural barrier. They help hold skin cells together, retain moisture, and protect against environmental stressors. Some are produced by the body, while others must be supplied topically or through diet.
Linoleic acid (omega-6)
WHAT IT IS: An essential fatty acid the body can’t produce on its own.
WHY IT MATTERS: Low levels of linoleic acid are linked to acne and a weakened skin barrier.
BENEFITS:
– Helps regulate sebum
– Supports skin clarity and texture
– Strengthens barrier function
Oleic acid (omega-9)
WHAT IT IS: A monounsaturated fat found in olive oil and tallow.
WHY IT MATTERS: Penetrates deeply to deliver nutrients but may disrupt the barrier if not balanced.
BENEFITS:
– Aids absorption of other ingredients
– Has anti-inflammatory properties
– Soothes dry or irritated skin
NOTE: High-oleic oils can be problematic for acne-prone skin when not offset with linoleic acid.
Stearic acid
WHAT IT IS: A saturated fatty acid found in tallow, cocoa butter, and shea butter.
WHY IT MATTERS: Essential for a strong skin barrier and smooth texture.
BENEFITS:
– Strengthens the lipid matrix of the skin
– Helps retain moisture
– Makes formulations stable and creamy
Palmitic acid
WHAT IT IS: A saturated fatty acid naturally present in skin sebum.
WHY IT MATTERS: Plays a key role in skin softening and protection.
BENEFITS:
– Enhances emollience
– Offers mild occlusion to prevent water loss
– Supports overall skin texture
WHY FATTY ACID BALANCE IS KEY
Each fatty acid brings something different to the table. Too much oleic acid without enough linoleic acid can disrupt the barrier. A blend of saturated and unsaturated fats helps mimic your skin’s natural lipid profile.
This is why we use:
- Grass-fed tallow (rich in stearic, palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids)
- Squalene (mimics the most abundant lipid in human sebum and enhances absorption)
- Cold-pressed rosehip oil (high in linoleic acid)
- Jojoba oil (a wax ester similar to human sebum)
Together, they help restore what the skin already understands: a balanced, resilient, well-fed barrier.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Fatty acids are the foundation of skin health. They hydrate, protect, and help your skin function at its best. Look for moisturizers that include a range of fatty acids — not just one type — to ensure your skin gets what it needs.
Good fats aren’t a trend. They’re what your skin’s been asking for all along.
SOURCES
Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones
In vivo human skin permeability enhancement by oleic acid
Stratum corneum fatty acids: their critical role in preserving barrier function